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What's the best tape to use in framing?, by Lroy on Mar 26, 2015 15:30:17 GMT 1, Yes. The prints never move and I can sell - If I sell one - them without any damages.
I don't put tape behind the print or the Marie-Louise ( picture mount ) to don't spoil it . OR, if it happened to me once or twice to do that, it's only to hold the print during seconds.
I put the frame upside down ( the glass beside the ground), I try to find the right balance for the print (upside down also) that I put directly on the glass or the edges of the Marie-Louise ( picture mount ) ; and then I immediately put the back of the frame ( the piece of wood or cardboard ) and I hold it very tight. Then, like a pancake, I returned the whole frame quickly ( still holdint it very tight ) . 1. If I see that the print is right, I nail it in the wood of the frame then poses the Scotch behind the whole framework. 2. If I see that the print is not straight, I try to adjust by inserting a finger (gloved) between the glass and the frame to reposition
Yes. The prints never move and I can sell - If I sell one - them without any damages.
I don't put tape behind the print or the Marie-Louise ( picture mount ) to don't spoil it . OR, if it happened to me once or twice to do that, it's only to hold the print during seconds.
I put the frame upside down ( the glass beside the ground), I try to find the right balance for the print (upside down also) that I put directly on the glass or the edges of the Marie-Louise ( picture mount ) ; and then I immediately put the back of the frame ( the piece of wood or cardboard ) and I hold it very tight. Then, like a pancake, I returned the whole frame quickly ( still holdint it very tight ) . 1. If I see that the print is right, I nail it in the wood of the frame then poses the Scotch behind the whole framework. 2. If I see that the print is not straight, I try to adjust by inserting a finger (gloved) between the glass and the frame to reposition
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beatztom
New Member
Posts โข 331
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November 2013
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What's the best tape to use in framing?, by beatztom on Apr 2, 2015 8:46:34 GMT 1, I've just finished floating a print with Japanese paper and a mix of tylose, ethanol and water. I used four hinges and some spacers to support the middle part of the print. I'm pretty happy with the result.
Before throwing myself into this project I experimented exhaustedly with various amounts of glue and different styles of paper. In all cases I was able to reverse the process with absolutely no damage to the piece. In 90% of cases I just had to pull gently on the hinge and it would come off without tearing anything. The trick is to have enough surface contact to hold the art properly but not too much that it gets tricky to remove the hinge, I suppose....
In the case that the hinges don't come off mechanically, the advantage of tylose is that you can reactivate it with a bit of water and thus proceed to safe removal of the hinge.
All these techniques I learnt from a specialist, who's job it is to restore, frame and conserve paper artworks. This person also supplied me with the appropriate materials and methodology.
A couple of points to take into consideration:
Use acid free mounting supports. Also the frame should not be made of wood which has been glued: MDF plywood etc... Uv plexi or treated glass is better. (I used normal glass because I live in a dark Parisian appartement and made sure my art never gets direct sunlight, plus I couldn't afford the special glass....)
Good luck with framing!
PS: I built the frame myself.
I've just finished floating a print with Japanese paper and a mix of tylose, ethanol and water. I used four hinges and some spacers to support the middle part of the print. I'm pretty happy with the result. Before throwing myself into this project I experimented exhaustedly with various amounts of glue and different styles of paper. In all cases I was able to reverse the process with absolutely no damage to the piece. In 90% of cases I just had to pull gently on the hinge and it would come off without tearing anything. The trick is to have enough surface contact to hold the art properly but not too much that it gets tricky to remove the hinge, I suppose.... In the case that the hinges don't come off mechanically, the advantage of tylose is that you can reactivate it with a bit of water and thus proceed to safe removal of the hinge. All these techniques I learnt from a specialist, who's job it is to restore, frame and conserve paper artworks. This person also supplied me with the appropriate materials and methodology. A couple of points to take into consideration: Use acid free mounting supports. Also the frame should not be made of wood which has been glued: MDF plywood etc... Uv plexi or treated glass is better. (I used normal glass because I live in a dark Parisian appartement and made sure my art never gets direct sunlight, plus I couldn't afford the special glass....) Good luck with framing! PS: I built the frame myself.
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Deleted
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January 1970
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What's the best tape to use in framing?, by Deleted on Apr 2, 2015 9:53:33 GMT 1, Solid advice, thanks ! posts like this exactly what the forum needs !
Solid advice, thanks ! posts like this exactly what the forum needs !
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avec art
Junior Member
Posts โข 3,724
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March 2014
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What's the best tape to use in framing?, by avec art on Apr 2, 2015 14:56:13 GMT 1, I never put any tape, never. What's your reasoning behind it Roy? I've been gathering everything I need to begin Some DIY framing myself and have yet to settle on archival tape or corners. I know tape is safer if the frame were to fall, but is it a better piece of mind not to use tape at all? hi sic, these are not your only two options. I like to use spacers under the lip of the frame to give a distance between the print and the artwork. You can get spacers in different colours and materials. I like to use perspex one but depends on the piece. So the print is pressed up against the spacers and does not need any adhesives of any sort and is very stable in its position. You can see an example of a Zanda Frog framed this way on my homepage www.printcave.co.uk/
I got my spacers from Lion Picture Framers, they do have a minimum order though.
I never put any tape, never. What's your reasoning behind it Roy? I've been gathering everything I need to begin Some DIY framing myself and have yet to settle on archival tape or corners. I know tape is safer if the frame were to fall, but is it a better piece of mind not to use tape at all? hi sic, these are not your only two options. I like to use spacers under the lip of the frame to give a distance between the print and the artwork. You can get spacers in different colours and materials. I like to use perspex one but depends on the piece. So the print is pressed up against the spacers and does not need any adhesives of any sort and is very stable in its position. You can see an example of a Zanda Frog framed this way on my homepage www.printcave.co.uk/I got my spacers from Lion Picture Framers, they do have a minimum order though.
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beatztom
New Member
Posts โข 331
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November 2013
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What's the best tape to use in framing?, by beatztom on Apr 2, 2015 15:04:49 GMT 1, Wouldn't plexiglass be considered 'anti conservation'? Plexi glass is made with pretty nasty stuff mostly petrol I guess, and I'm not sure that in the long run that should be in contact with paper. I'll try and find out from an authoritative source
Wouldn't plexiglass be considered 'anti conservation'? Plexi glass is made with pretty nasty stuff mostly petrol I guess, and I'm not sure that in the long run that should be in contact with paper. I'll try and find out from an authoritative source
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Deleted
Posts โข 0
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January 1970
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What's the best tape to use in framing?, by Deleted on Apr 2, 2015 16:50:45 GMT 1, What's your reasoning behind it Roy? I've been gathering everything I need to begin Some DIY framing myself and have yet to settle on archival tape or corners. I know tape is safer if the frame were to fall, but is it a better piece of mind not to use tape at all? hi sic, these are not your only two options. I like to use spacers under the lip of the frame to give a distance between the print and the artwork. You can get spacers in different colours and materials. I like to use perspex one but depends on the piece. So the print is pressed up against the spacers and does not need any adhesives of any sort and is very stable in its position. You can see an example of a Zanda Frog framed this way on my homepage www.printcave.co.uk/I got my spacers from Lion Picture Framers, they do have a minimum order though. I always wondered, is there a chance the spacers could press a crease into the front of the print?
What's your reasoning behind it Roy? I've been gathering everything I need to begin Some DIY framing myself and have yet to settle on archival tape or corners. I know tape is safer if the frame were to fall, but is it a better piece of mind not to use tape at all? hi sic, these are not your only two options. I like to use spacers under the lip of the frame to give a distance between the print and the artwork. You can get spacers in different colours and materials. I like to use perspex one but depends on the piece. So the print is pressed up against the spacers and does not need any adhesives of any sort and is very stable in its position. You can see an example of a Zanda Frog framed this way on my homepage www.printcave.co.uk/I got my spacers from Lion Picture Framers, they do have a minimum order though. I always wondered, is there a chance the spacers could press a crease into the front of the print?
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avec art
Junior Member
Posts โข 3,724
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March 2014
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What's the best tape to use in framing?, by avec art on Apr 2, 2015 17:10:52 GMT 1, To answer the comments above, Lion Picture Framers are leading framing specialist suppliers, a lot of framers source their material from them.
They say this about their spacers 'extruded from acid-free polymers and with no plasticisers. Help you create a space between the artwork and the glass.'.
So I think you can feel safe about using them. With regard to the chance that spacers could press a crease ... well I think I don't have enough experience to say. Only that it's never happened to me. The prints I generally frame employ heavy paper, usually around 300 gsm. So it might be more likely to happen with lighter papers. But I think because the pressure is evenly distributed around the print this doesn't seem to happen.
One possible issue with this method, is that if the print suffered any yellowing from sunlight, and later you were to take it out of the frame, the boarder part which was covered might remain brighter in colour - however the same is true if you used a passepartout.
a variety of spacers can be found on their website www.lionpic.co.uk/
To answer the comments above, Lion Picture Framers are leading framing specialist suppliers, a lot of framers source their material from them. They say this about their spacers 'extruded from acid-free polymers and with no plasticisers. Help you create a space between the artwork and the glass.'. So I think you can feel safe about using them. With regard to the chance that spacers could press a crease ... well I think I don't have enough experience to say. Only that it's never happened to me. The prints I generally frame employ heavy paper, usually around 300 gsm. So it might be more likely to happen with lighter papers. But I think because the pressure is evenly distributed around the print this doesn't seem to happen. One possible issue with this method, is that if the print suffered any yellowing from sunlight, and later you were to take it out of the frame, the boarder part which was covered might remain brighter in colour - however the same is true if you used a passepartout. a variety of spacers can be found on their website www.lionpic.co.uk/
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iamzero
Full Member
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May 2011
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What's the best tape to use in framing?, by iamzero on Apr 2, 2015 17:51:47 GMT 1, I reframed a Peter Blake print that had been framed with econospace spacers and it hadn't affected the print. I use lion too and they're pretty good on prices.
I reframed a Peter Blake print that had been framed with econospace spacers and it hadn't affected the print. I use lion too and they're pretty good on prices.
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Sic
New Member
Posts โข 341
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January 2014
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What's the best tape to use in framing?, by Sic on Apr 2, 2015 18:31:43 GMT 1, What's your reasoning behind it Roy? I've been gathering everything I need to begin Some DIY framing myself and have yet to settle on archival tape or corners. I know tape is safer if the frame were to fall, but is it a better piece of mind not to use tape at all? hi sic, these are not your only two options. I like to use spacers under the lip of the frame to give a distance between the print and the artwork. You can get spacers in different colours and materials. I like to use perspex one but depends on the piece. So the print is pressed up against the spacers and does not need any adhesives of any sort and is very stable in its position. You can see an example of a Zanda Frog framed this way on my homepage www.printcave.co.uk/I got my spacers from Lion Picture Framers, they do have a minimum order though. Thanks so much for the advice! I will order some of those right away and give them a try. I appreciate your advice. Now if I could only find a local place that will provide me with custom length frame sections that I can piece together myself, I'll be set.
What's your reasoning behind it Roy? I've been gathering everything I need to begin Some DIY framing myself and have yet to settle on archival tape or corners. I know tape is safer if the frame were to fall, but is it a better piece of mind not to use tape at all? hi sic, these are not your only two options. I like to use spacers under the lip of the frame to give a distance between the print and the artwork. You can get spacers in different colours and materials. I like to use perspex one but depends on the piece. So the print is pressed up against the spacers and does not need any adhesives of any sort and is very stable in its position. You can see an example of a Zanda Frog framed this way on my homepage www.printcave.co.uk/I got my spacers from Lion Picture Framers, they do have a minimum order though. Thanks so much for the advice! I will order some of those right away and give them a try. I appreciate your advice. Now if I could only find a local place that will provide me with custom length frame sections that I can piece together myself, I'll be set.
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iamzero
Full Member
Posts โข 9,188
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May 2011
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What's the best tape to use in framing?, by iamzero on Apr 2, 2015 19:07:38 GMT 1, Lion do a chop service as do Brampton Framing.
Lion do a chop service as do Brampton Framing.
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bruhbruh
New Member
Posts โข 26
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January 2015
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What's the best tape to use in framing?, by bruhbruh on Apr 2, 2015 19:17:08 GMT 1, Japanese hinging (kind of like a wheat paste) for sure... don't use a non reversible tape and ruin the print... From my understanding a little bit of moisture and it comes right of without any damage or taking any of the print paper with it.
Japanese hinging (kind of like a wheat paste) for sure... don't use a non reversible tape and ruin the print... From my understanding a little bit of moisture and it comes right of without any damage or taking any of the print paper with it.
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bruhbruh
New Member
Posts โข 26
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January 2015
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What's the best tape to use in framing?, by bruhbruh on Apr 2, 2015 19:20:07 GMT 1, Japanese hinging (kind of like a wheat paste) for sure... don't use a non reversible tape and ruin the print... From my understanding a little bit of moisture and it comes right of without any damage or taking any of the print paper with it. And that's only if you need to float it...
Japanese hinging (kind of like a wheat paste) for sure... don't use a non reversible tape and ruin the print... From my understanding a little bit of moisture and it comes right of without any damage or taking any of the print paper with it. And that's only if you need to float it...
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avec art
Junior Member
Posts โข 3,724
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March 2014
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What's the best tape to use in framing?, by avec art on Apr 2, 2015 20:55:34 GMT 1, The other day I float mounted this Heavy Weaponary postcard from the Bristol museum. I used acid free gummed conservation tape from lion to float it. So made small rolls and wetted them with a moist brush and placed them into position onto the acid free backing and lowered the postcard (using a template for accuracy) onto them. Tbh I don't think you could remove this tape without some damage to back of the postcard due to the postcards glossy nature. But hey it's only a postcard and to be enjoyed.
It's deep box framed (using spacers) and finished off at the back with french tape, but I also gave the frame a small glass window for viewing the monkey queen stamp on the back of the postcard.
The other day I float mounted this Heavy Weaponary postcard from the Bristol museum. I used acid free gummed conservation tape from lion to float it. So made small rolls and wetted them with a moist brush and placed them into position onto the acid free backing and lowered the postcard (using a template for accuracy) onto them. Tbh I don't think you could remove this tape without some damage to back of the postcard due to the postcards glossy nature. But hey it's only a postcard and to be enjoyed. It's deep box framed (using spacers) and finished off at the back with french tape, but I also gave the frame a small glass window for viewing the monkey queen stamp on the back of the postcard.
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iamzero
Full Member
Posts โข 9,188
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May 2011
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What's the best tape to use in framing?, by iamzero on Apr 2, 2015 21:49:59 GMT 1, To be honest dude the stock that the postcard is printed pn is totally different to the stock our general art is printed on. I've removed hayaku hinges from art no problem.
To be honest dude the stock that the postcard is printed pn is totally different to the stock our general art is printed on. I've removed hayaku hinges from art no problem.
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avec art
Junior Member
Posts โข 3,724
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March 2014
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What's the best tape to use in framing?, by avec art on Apr 2, 2015 22:27:15 GMT 1, Yes exactly this is why I said it does create a mark after removing from the postcard. But like you say papers that are used for printing are different, and you can remove this gummed tape or the hayaku hinges with a damp brush without causing damage, and the slightly damp area on the paper will gradually dry. Although to keep the reverse 100% free from any visible mark at all I would suggest not floating it. Although float mounting IMO looks better with contemporary/modern art, and I'm personally not a big fan of the passepartout. So sometimes spacers are a kind of compromise for me. I recently have seen custom made sprayed spacers for a martin whatson piece I think, and comic strip collaged spacers for a sandra chevrier work that I thought was quite imaginative and looked good.
Yes exactly this is why I said it does create a mark after removing from the postcard. But like you say papers that are used for printing are different, and you can remove this gummed tape or the hayaku hinges with a damp brush without causing damage, and the slightly damp area on the paper will gradually dry. Although to keep the reverse 100% free from any visible mark at all I would suggest not floating it. Although float mounting IMO looks better with contemporary/modern art, and I'm personally not a big fan of the passepartout. So sometimes spacers are a kind of compromise for me. I recently have seen custom made sprayed spacers for a martin whatson piece I think, and comic strip collaged spacers for a sandra chevrier work that I thought was quite imaginative and looked good.
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met
Junior Member
Posts โข 2,654
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June 2009
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What's the best tape to use in framing?, by met on Apr 6, 2015 16:27:34 GMT 1, I've just finished floating a print with Japanese paper and a mix of tylose, ethanol and water. I used four hinges and some spacers to support the middle part of the print. I'm pretty happy with the result. Before throwing myself into this project I experimented exhaustedly with various amounts of glue and different styles of paper. In all cases I was able to reverse the process with absolutely no damage to the piece. In 90% of cases I just had to pull gently on the hinge and it would come off without tearing anything. The trick is to have enough surface contact to hold the art properly but not too much that it gets tricky to remove the hinge, I suppose.... In the case that the hinges don't come off mechanically, the advantage of tylose is that you can reactivate it with a bit of water and thus proceed to safe removal of the hinge. All these techniques I learnt from a specialist, who's job it is to restore, frame and conserve paper artworks. This person also supplied me with the appropriate materials and methodology. A couple of points to take into consideration: Use acid free mounting supports. Also the frame should not be made of wood which has been glued: MDF plywood etc... Uv plexi or treated glass is better. (I used normal glass because I live in a dark Parisian appartement and made sure my art never gets direct sunlight, plus I couldn't afford the special glass....) Good luck with framing! PS: I built the frame myself.
Thank you for your explanations and advice, and congratulations on the fine work. I'm a fan of these types of geeky posts.
Although I haven't tried my hand at framing, I do get real pleasure when I change a fuse or some lamp holder wiring without electrocuting myself. It may seem minor to others, but the personal satisfaction for me is immense when I turn on the light switch and the bulb actually lights up.
A few questions, if you have time to consider them:
1. Which type of Japanese paper did you use? [Your description brought back to mind this helpful post by commissioner.]
2. What thickness and strength of Japanese paper was it? No doubt they were determined by the measurements and paper weight of the Beejoir print.
3. When you say, "I used four hinges and some spacers to support the middle part of the print", do you mean four hinges were used in total for the framing (i.e. one hinge for each of the print corners)? Or is four the number of hinges used to support just the middle part of the print, along with some spacers?
4. By "mounting supports", can you confirm what you mean? Is this a reference to a pedestal (like foam board) on which work is placed, to raise it from the surface of the decorative backing?
5. I assume "wood which has been glued" refers only to glued wood pieces or fibres (like your examples of MDF and plywood), as opposed to any glue used in the corners of a frame during its construction. [This would discount all the IKEA frames some people rave about for reasons of cost and convenience, although hopefully no one's under the impression that standard IKEA frames are in any way archival.]
-------------
As a separate comment, I'm surprised there hasn't yet been some quip about your Paul McCarthy Tree. Perhaps that's down to the discretion of its size, general appearance and positioning.
I've just finished floating a print with Japanese paper and a mix of tylose, ethanol and water. I used four hinges and some spacers to support the middle part of the print. I'm pretty happy with the result. Before throwing myself into this project I experimented exhaustedly with various amounts of glue and different styles of paper. In all cases I was able to reverse the process with absolutely no damage to the piece. In 90% of cases I just had to pull gently on the hinge and it would come off without tearing anything. The trick is to have enough surface contact to hold the art properly but not too much that it gets tricky to remove the hinge, I suppose.... In the case that the hinges don't come off mechanically, the advantage of tylose is that you can reactivate it with a bit of water and thus proceed to safe removal of the hinge. All these techniques I learnt from a specialist, who's job it is to restore, frame and conserve paper artworks. This person also supplied me with the appropriate materials and methodology. A couple of points to take into consideration: Use acid free mounting supports. Also the frame should not be made of wood which has been glued: MDF plywood etc... Uv plexi or treated glass is better. (I used normal glass because I live in a dark Parisian appartement and made sure my art never gets direct sunlight, plus I couldn't afford the special glass....) Good luck with framing! PS: I built the frame myself. Thank you for your explanations and advice, and congratulations on the fine work. I'm a fan of these types of geeky posts. Although I haven't tried my hand at framing, I do get real pleasure when I change a fuse or some lamp holder wiring without electrocuting myself. It may seem minor to others, but the personal satisfaction for me is immense when I turn on the light switch and the bulb actually lights up. A few questions, if you have time to consider them: 1. Which type of Japanese paper did you use? [Your description brought back to mind this helpful post by commissioner.] 2. What thickness and strength of Japanese paper was it? No doubt they were determined by the measurements and paper weight of the Beejoir print. 3. When you say, "I used four hinges and some spacers to support the middle part of the print", do you mean four hinges were used in total for the framing (i.e. one hinge for each of the print corners)? Or is four the number of hinges used to support just the middle part of the print, along with some spacers? 4. By "mounting supports", can you confirm what you mean? Is this a reference to a pedestal (like foam board) on which work is placed, to raise it from the surface of the decorative backing? 5. I assume "wood which has been glued" refers only to glued wood pieces or fibres (like your examples of MDF and plywood), as opposed to any glue used in the corners of a frame during its construction. [This would discount all the IKEA frames some people rave about for reasons of cost and convenience, although hopefully no one's under the impression that standard IKEA frames are in any way archival.] ------------- As a separate comment, I'm surprised there hasn't yet been some quip about your Paul McCarthy Tree. Perhaps that's down to the discretion of its size, general appearance and positioning.
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curiousgeorge
Junior Member
Posts โข 5,833
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March 2007
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Poly Mindset
Junior Member
Posts โข 1,174
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March 2014
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What's the best tape to use in framing?, by Poly Mindset on Apr 7, 2015 3:18:30 GMT 1, Thanks for posting this. Has anyone used any of these papers for Japanese hinges, if so which one works best? I've heard there is a rice paper that pretty much dissolves with a small amount of water leaving no residue.
Thanks for posting this. Has anyone used any of these papers for Japanese hinges, if so which one works best? I've heard there is a rice paper that pretty much dissolves with a small amount of water leaving no residue.
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curiousgeorge
Junior Member
Posts โข 5,833
Likes โข 1,091
March 2007
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What's the best tape to use in framing?, by curiousgeorge on Apr 7, 2015 3:27:28 GMT 1, Different papers for different art papers..Try and match the gsm of them
You should try and match gsm as per paper. Remember the hinge should be the weakest link in framing, if the picture falls off the wall. You want the hinge tearing and not the print.
FYI Apply wheat starch to the paper rather than any gummed or pre-starched stuff
Different papers for different art papers..Try and match the gsm of them
You should try and match gsm as per paper. Remember the hinge should be the weakest link in framing, if the picture falls off the wall. You want the hinge tearing and not the print.
FYI Apply wheat starch to the paper rather than any gummed or pre-starched stuff
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beatztom
New Member
Posts โข 331
Likes โข 243
November 2013
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What's the best tape to use in framing?, by beatztom on Apr 13, 2015 22:06:55 GMT 1, I've just finished floating a print with Japanese paper and a mix of tylose, ethanol and water. I used four hinges and some spacers to support the middle part of the print. I'm pretty happy with the result. Before throwing myself into this project I experimented exhaustedly with various amounts of glue and different styles of paper. In all cases I was able to reverse the process with absolutely no damage to the piece. In 90% of cases I just had to pull gently on the hinge and it would come off without tearing anything. The trick is to have enough surface contact to hold the art properly but not too much that it gets tricky to remove the hinge, I suppose.... In the case that the hinges don't come off mechanically, the advantage of tylose is that you can reactivate it with a bit of water and thus proceed to safe removal of the hinge. All these techniques I learnt from a specialist, who's job it is to restore, frame and conserve paper artworks. This person also supplied me with the appropriate materials and methodology. A couple of points to take into consideration: Use acid free mounting supports. Also the frame should not be made of wood which has been glued: MDF plywood etc... Uv plexi or treated glass is better. (I used normal glass because I live in a dark Parisian appartement and made sure my art never gets direct sunlight, plus I couldn't afford the special glass....) Good luck with framing! PS: I built the frame myself. Thank you for your explanations and advice, and congratulations on the fine work. I'm a fan of these types of geeky posts. Although I haven't tried my hand at framing, I do get real pleasure when I change a fuse or some lamp holder wiring without electrocuting myself. It may seem minor to others, but the personal satisfaction for me is immense when I turn on the light switch and the bulb actually lights up. A few questions, if you have time to consider them: 1. Which type of Japanese paper did you use? [Your description brought back to mind this helpful post by commissioner.] 2. What thickness and strength of Japanese paper was it? No doubt they were determined by the measurements and paper weight of the Beejoir print. 3. When you say, "I used four hinges and some spacers to support the middle part of the print", do you mean four hinges were used in total for the framing (i.e. one hinge for each of the print corners)? Or is four the number of hinges used to support just the middle part of the print, along with some spacers? 4. By "mounting supports", can you confirm what you mean? Is this a reference to a pedestal (like foam board) on which work is placed, to raise it from the surface of the decorative backing? 5. I assume "wood which has been glued" refers only to glued wood pieces or fibres (like your examples of MDF and plywood), as opposed to any glue used in the corners of a frame during its construction. [This would discount all the IKEA frames some people rave about for reasons of cost and convenience, although hopefully no one's under the impression that standard IKEA frames are in any way archival.] ------------- As a separate comment, I'm surprised there hasn't yet been some quip about your Paul McCarthy Tree. Perhaps that's down to the discretion of its size, general appearance and positioning. Thanks for the kind words! I'll try and answer your queries as best as I can, however there are a couple of points I will have to forward to someone more competent in this field than I.
1. The type of japanese paper: I'll get back to you on this one. The paper I have is very, very thin, yet still robust enough to not tear that easily. The advantage being that you can paste glue onto the side which is not in contact with the work, and the glue will be instantly absorbed by the paper and pass through to the other side.
2.I wasn't at all that scientific about which paper to use, I pretty much played it by ear and used what I had been given. I did experiment with a couple of different size hinges to get a feel for how much surface contact would be necessary to bond strongly enough for the purposes of holding a relatively light print.
3. I used in total 4 hinges, one in each corner, though I originally wanted to only use the top two corners. The problem I had was that I wasn't patient enough about flattening the print, and I have a sneaky suspicion that it was stored for a few years in a tube (seeing as it was the 'lost tokyo 2012' edition). I left it for a couple of weeks, but that was no where near enough to properly flatten it. In the end I got a semi-decent (not perfect) result. At one point I will probably unframe it and try to flatten it properly. Because of this I glued some small squares of acid free cardboard between the hinges to try and maintain a flat, even surface and counter the print's tendency to roll into a tube, especially in the middle. In the end, I presume that even a print which has been properly flattened still needs some kind of support/spacer in the middle, if only the 4 corners are hinged, or for prints with larger surface area.
4. By mounting support I meant the piece of acid free cardboard onto which the print is hinged. I cut the cardboard to the size of the frame, and used the off cuts to make the hinges, and the spacers which maintain the print's flatness and raise the print from the backing.
5. That's exactly what I meant! Apparently the glue used in creating panels like MDF or plywood can emanate fumes or gasses which aren't ideal for conserving artworks over time. To tell you the truth, I used MDF, because I had it lying around. I'm hoping that the paint might form somekind of barrier to the fumes I mentioned... who knows! It's not like I have a huge surface area of the stuff either. I didn't bother taping the back either, so maybe those nasty gasses will escape through the gaps!
I'm sure a formerly trained conservation framer would probably find many faults with my framing, but I'm pretty happy knowing that it floats, and that I can remove the hinges if necessary without causing any damage or leaving any marks. I'm also sure that the glue I used is not going to damage the print. I have no idea how bad it is to use MDF frames, maybe another benevolent member could chime in, hopefully before my print turns fluorescent yellow!!
Joking aside, If the mdf is sealed, I don't thing the gassing should be an issue, or definitely not one losing sleep over...
As for the McCarthy. I too was surprised it didn't cause more of a stir. Maybe because I didn't show the 'other' side?
Hope my experiences have helped, don't hesitate if you have any more questions. I'll try and get back to you shortly on the type of paper used.
Best,
Tom
I've just finished floating a print with Japanese paper and a mix of tylose, ethanol and water. I used four hinges and some spacers to support the middle part of the print. I'm pretty happy with the result. Before throwing myself into this project I experimented exhaustedly with various amounts of glue and different styles of paper. In all cases I was able to reverse the process with absolutely no damage to the piece. In 90% of cases I just had to pull gently on the hinge and it would come off without tearing anything. The trick is to have enough surface contact to hold the art properly but not too much that it gets tricky to remove the hinge, I suppose.... In the case that the hinges don't come off mechanically, the advantage of tylose is that you can reactivate it with a bit of water and thus proceed to safe removal of the hinge. All these techniques I learnt from a specialist, who's job it is to restore, frame and conserve paper artworks. This person also supplied me with the appropriate materials and methodology. A couple of points to take into consideration: Use acid free mounting supports. Also the frame should not be made of wood which has been glued: MDF plywood etc... Uv plexi or treated glass is better. (I used normal glass because I live in a dark Parisian appartement and made sure my art never gets direct sunlight, plus I couldn't afford the special glass....) Good luck with framing! PS: I built the frame myself. Thank you for your explanations and advice, and congratulations on the fine work. I'm a fan of these types of geeky posts. Although I haven't tried my hand at framing, I do get real pleasure when I change a fuse or some lamp holder wiring without electrocuting myself. It may seem minor to others, but the personal satisfaction for me is immense when I turn on the light switch and the bulb actually lights up. A few questions, if you have time to consider them: 1. Which type of Japanese paper did you use? [Your description brought back to mind this helpful post by commissioner.] 2. What thickness and strength of Japanese paper was it? No doubt they were determined by the measurements and paper weight of the Beejoir print. 3. When you say, "I used four hinges and some spacers to support the middle part of the print", do you mean four hinges were used in total for the framing (i.e. one hinge for each of the print corners)? Or is four the number of hinges used to support just the middle part of the print, along with some spacers? 4. By "mounting supports", can you confirm what you mean? Is this a reference to a pedestal (like foam board) on which work is placed, to raise it from the surface of the decorative backing? 5. I assume "wood which has been glued" refers only to glued wood pieces or fibres (like your examples of MDF and plywood), as opposed to any glue used in the corners of a frame during its construction. [This would discount all the IKEA frames some people rave about for reasons of cost and convenience, although hopefully no one's under the impression that standard IKEA frames are in any way archival.] ------------- As a separate comment, I'm surprised there hasn't yet been some quip about your Paul McCarthy Tree. Perhaps that's down to the discretion of its size, general appearance and positioning. Thanks for the kind words! I'll try and answer your queries as best as I can, however there are a couple of points I will have to forward to someone more competent in this field than I. 1. The type of japanese paper: I'll get back to you on this one. The paper I have is very, very thin, yet still robust enough to not tear that easily. The advantage being that you can paste glue onto the side which is not in contact with the work, and the glue will be instantly absorbed by the paper and pass through to the other side. 2.I wasn't at all that scientific about which paper to use, I pretty much played it by ear and used what I had been given. I did experiment with a couple of different size hinges to get a feel for how much surface contact would be necessary to bond strongly enough for the purposes of holding a relatively light print. 3. I used in total 4 hinges, one in each corner, though I originally wanted to only use the top two corners. The problem I had was that I wasn't patient enough about flattening the print, and I have a sneaky suspicion that it was stored for a few years in a tube (seeing as it was the 'lost tokyo 2012' edition). I left it for a couple of weeks, but that was no where near enough to properly flatten it. In the end I got a semi-decent (not perfect) result. At one point I will probably unframe it and try to flatten it properly. Because of this I glued some small squares of acid free cardboard between the hinges to try and maintain a flat, even surface and counter the print's tendency to roll into a tube, especially in the middle. In the end, I presume that even a print which has been properly flattened still needs some kind of support/spacer in the middle, if only the 4 corners are hinged, or for prints with larger surface area. 4. By mounting support I meant the piece of acid free cardboard onto which the print is hinged. I cut the cardboard to the size of the frame, and used the off cuts to make the hinges, and the spacers which maintain the print's flatness and raise the print from the backing. 5. That's exactly what I meant! Apparently the glue used in creating panels like MDF or plywood can emanate fumes or gasses which aren't ideal for conserving artworks over time. To tell you the truth, I used MDF, because I had it lying around. I'm hoping that the paint might form somekind of barrier to the fumes I mentioned... who knows! It's not like I have a huge surface area of the stuff either. I didn't bother taping the back either, so maybe those nasty gasses will escape through the gaps! I'm sure a formerly trained conservation framer would probably find many faults with my framing, but I'm pretty happy knowing that it floats, and that I can remove the hinges if necessary without causing any damage or leaving any marks. I'm also sure that the glue I used is not going to damage the print. I have no idea how bad it is to use MDF frames, maybe another benevolent member could chime in, hopefully before my print turns fluorescent yellow!! Joking aside, If the mdf is sealed, I don't thing the gassing should be an issue, or definitely not one losing sleep over... As for the McCarthy. I too was surprised it didn't cause more of a stir. Maybe because I didn't show the 'other' side? Hope my experiences have helped, don't hesitate if you have any more questions. I'll try and get back to you shortly on the type of paper used. Best, Tom
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met
Junior Member
Posts โข 2,654
Likes โข 6,226
June 2009
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What's the best tape to use in framing?, by met on Apr 15, 2015 2:56:17 GMT 1,
Different papers for different art papers..Try and match the gsm of them You should try and match gsm as per paper. Remember the hinge should be the weakest link in framing, if the picture falls off the wall. You want the hinge tearing and not the print. FYI Apply wheat starch to the paper rather than any gummed or pre-starched stuff
Many thanks for this.
I didn't know there were so many types and weights of Japanese paper to choose from.
In my case, abundance of choice generally leads to paralysis โ so your tip of trying to match the weights (of the Japanese paper and the art paper it will be hanging) was very helpful.
Different papers for different art papers..Try and match the gsm of them You should try and match gsm as per paper. Remember the hinge should be the weakest link in framing, if the picture falls off the wall. You want the hinge tearing and not the print. FYI Apply wheat starch to the paper rather than any gummed or pre-starched stuff Many thanks for this. I didn't know there were so many types and weights of Japanese paper to choose from. In my case, abundance of choice generally leads to paralysis โ so your tip of trying to match the weights (of the Japanese paper and the art paper it will be hanging) was very helpful.
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met
Junior Member
Posts โข 2,654
Likes โข 6,226
June 2009
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What's the best tape to use in framing?, by met on Apr 15, 2015 3:14:47 GMT 1, Thanks for the kind words! I'll try and answer your queries as best as I can, however there are a couple of points I will have to forward to someone more competent in this field than I. 1. The type of japanese paper: I'll get back to you on this one. The paper I have is very, very thin, yet still robust enough to not tear that easily. The advantage being that you can paste glue onto the side which is not in contact with the work, and the glue will be instantly absorbed by the paper and pass through to the other side. [...] Many thanks for taking the time to respond.
I found the advantage you mentioned in point 1 to be interesting. It wasn't something I'd previously considered. No doubt this simplifies the process, also allowing for greater control when applying the wheat starch.
Thanks for the kind words! I'll try and answer your queries as best as I can, however there are a couple of points I will have to forward to someone more competent in this field than I. 1. The type of japanese paper: I'll get back to you on this one. The paper I have is very, very thin, yet still robust enough to not tear that easily. The advantage being that you can paste glue onto the side which is not in contact with the work, and the glue will be instantly absorbed by the paper and pass through to the other side. [...] Many thanks for taking the time to respond. I found the advantage you mentioned in point 1 to be interesting. It wasn't something I'd previously considered. No doubt this simplifies the process, also allowing for greater control when applying the wheat starch.
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beatztom
New Member
Posts โข 331
Likes โข 243
November 2013
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What's the best tape to use in framing?, by beatztom on Apr 15, 2015 8:59:45 GMT 1, Got some more info on the paper and the glue:
The paper is 15 gr par meter square, the glue is Methylcelulose the commercial name is Tylose MH300 is was diluted 50% water and 50%ethanol a 99%
I'm not sure if the densities are properly matched in my frame job, but it suits me anyway. If the artwork were ever to be dropped, I don't think the hinges would tear, but I'm confident they would come undone from the print, but then the print would surely be subjected to some kind of dings, so I prefer avoiding that situation!! The advice from the person who supplied me with the materials is to make sure the hinges are easily accessible to be able to cut them rapidly in case of an emergency, such as water damage.
Happy framing everybody!
Got some more info on the paper and the glue:
The paper is 15 gr par meter square, the glue is Methylcelulose the commercial name is Tylose MH300 is was diluted 50% water and 50%ethanol a 99%
I'm not sure if the densities are properly matched in my frame job, but it suits me anyway. If the artwork were ever to be dropped, I don't think the hinges would tear, but I'm confident they would come undone from the print, but then the print would surely be subjected to some kind of dings, so I prefer avoiding that situation!! The advice from the person who supplied me with the materials is to make sure the hinges are easily accessible to be able to cut them rapidly in case of an emergency, such as water damage.
Happy framing everybody!
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curiousgeorge
Junior Member
Posts โข 5,833
Likes โข 1,091
March 2007
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What's the best tape to use in framing?, by curiousgeorge on Apr 16, 2015 0:35:43 GMT 1, Different papers for different art papers..Try and match the gsm of them You should try and match gsm as per paper. Remember the hinge should be the weakest link in framing, if the picture falls off the wall. You want the hinge tearing and not the print. FYI Apply wheat starch to the paper rather than any gummed or pre-starched stuff Many thanks for this. I didn't know there were so many types and weights of Japanese paper to choose from. In my case, abundance of choice generally leads to paralysis โ so your tip of trying to match the weights (of the Japanese paper and the art paper it will be hanging) was very helpful. My pleasure.
If I get round to booting up my windows machine(urgh) I'll dig out a link to a different retailer that offer variety packs of papers. It was my saving grace, as like you, I struggle when presented with lots of options
It is also not difficult to get off-cuts of different weights of art papers to practise on from various sources in London.
Different papers for different art papers..Try and match the gsm of them You should try and match gsm as per paper. Remember the hinge should be the weakest link in framing, if the picture falls off the wall. You want the hinge tearing and not the print. FYI Apply wheat starch to the paper rather than any gummed or pre-starched stuff Many thanks for this. I didn't know there were so many types and weights of Japanese paper to choose from. In my case, abundance of choice generally leads to paralysis โ so your tip of trying to match the weights (of the Japanese paper and the art paper it will be hanging) was very helpful. My pleasure. If I get round to booting up my windows machine(urgh) I'll dig out a link to a different retailer that offer variety packs of papers. It was my saving grace, as like you, I struggle when presented with lots of options It is also not difficult to get off-cuts of different weights of art papers to practise on from various sources in London.
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londonfx
Junior Member
Posts โข 1,163
Likes โข 707
December 2013
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What's the best tape to use in framing?, by londonfx on Jun 23, 2015 22:45:14 GMT 1, I'm looking a purchasing a print that has been float mounted for a few years. It was framed by a gallery, and they have said they used heavy paste strips on the top and bottom.
Would the print come out of the frame without any marks on the back?
The seller said he can't see any ripples in the print, so that's a good sign, right?
I'm looking a purchasing a print that has been float mounted for a few years. It was framed by a gallery, and they have said they used heavy paste strips on the top and bottom.
Would the print come out of the frame without any marks on the back?
The seller said he can't see any ripples in the print, so that's a good sign, right?
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iamzero
Full Member
Posts โข 9,188
Likes โข 8,537
May 2011
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What's the best tape to use in framing?, by iamzero on Jun 24, 2015 7:10:26 GMT 1, Once removed you might see where the hinges have been but if done correctly there shouldn't be any damage. If you're unsure on dampening the hinges then I would suggest slicing them away from the board first.
Once removed you might see where the hinges have been but if done correctly there shouldn't be any damage. If you're unsure on dampening the hinges then I would suggest slicing them away from the board first.
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londonfx
Junior Member
Posts โข 1,163
Likes โข 707
December 2013
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What's the best tape to use in framing?, by londonfx on Jun 24, 2015 10:18:48 GMT 1, I'm going to get my framer to do it. As I would want to attend something like that.
Would having signs of hinges on the back of a print (even if there is no damage or ripples from the front) put people of when buying a print?
If I bought this print it would go straight up on the wall, in another frame. And stay there for ages. So not looking to sell. But you can never tell what the future holds.
I'm going to get my framer to do it. As I would want to attend something like that.
Would having signs of hinges on the back of a print (even if there is no damage or ripples from the front) put people of when buying a print?
If I bought this print it would go straight up on the wall, in another frame. And stay there for ages. So not looking to sell. But you can never tell what the future holds.
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chr1s
New Member
Posts โข 130
Likes โข 300
February 2011
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What's the best tape to use in framing?, by chr1s on Jul 31, 2016 16:53:12 GMT 1, I posted this a while back on EB. Below is a link to a vimeo video I did demonstrating how to do a standard pendant hinge using wheat paste and Japanese mulberry paper.
I posted this a while back on EB. Below is a link to a vimeo video I did demonstrating how to do a standard pendant hinge using wheat paste and Japanese mulberry paper.
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chr1s
New Member
Posts โข 130
Likes โข 300
February 2011
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What's the best tape to use in framing?, by chr1s on Jul 31, 2016 16:57:19 GMT 1, And if you're curious to see how easy it is to remove a wheat past and mulberry paper hinge see the video below. There is a reason why Wheat paste is the standard method used in museums and reputable frame shops. This was also originally posted on the EB website. I also posted a lengthy tutorial on how to float a print on that site.
And just to explain, in the video I am using a Q-tip that is damp with distilled water. I rub the damp Q-tip over the Japanese mulberry paper that was previously adhered to a print with wheat paste. The distilled water almost instantly breaks the bond (wheat paste is water based). Once I have removed the mulberry paper hinge I use blotter paper to absorb any residual moisture. And as you can see there is absolutely no damage to the back of the print and no evidence that it had every been hinged.
And if you're curious to see how easy it is to remove a wheat past and mulberry paper hinge see the video below. There is a reason why Wheat paste is the standard method used in museums and reputable frame shops. This was also originally posted on the EB website. I also posted a lengthy tutorial on how to float a print on that site.
And just to explain, in the video I am using a Q-tip that is damp with distilled water. I rub the damp Q-tip over the Japanese mulberry paper that was previously adhered to a print with wheat paste. The distilled water almost instantly breaks the bond (wheat paste is water based). Once I have removed the mulberry paper hinge I use blotter paper to absorb any residual moisture. And as you can see there is absolutely no damage to the back of the print and no evidence that it had every been hinged.
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